You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser for a better user experience.

This is a guide dedicated to both legitimate and fake Nintendo 3DS CTR-005 cartridges. The Nintendo 3DS cartridges had a production lifespan from 2011-2023.

Contents

  1. Carts
    1. How many types of cartridges are there?
    2. Debossings on Rear Cart
  2. Labels
  3. Decoding Cartridge Codes
  4. PCB Batch Identifiers
  5. PCB Variations
  6. Cases
    1. Nintendo 3DS
    2. New Nintendo 3DS
  7. Seals
    1. NTSC
    2. PAL
  8. Opening a 3DS Cart
  9. Special Thanks

As of February 2026, actual counterfeits of the Nintendo 3DS cartridges are becoming more common. Once thought "safe" from counterfeits, this is no longer the case. We are aware of faked PCB's, and once we have them on our person, a new section will be drafted.

Carts

Nintendo 3DS carts are similar to the Nintendo DS carts, however they are mainly white and have a rectangular tag on the right side of the cart to prevent insertion into original DS consoles. 3DS carts use the model code: CTR-005.
Teddy Together for 3DS, PAL. Rear face on left, front face on right.

How many types of cartridges are there?

Whilst the Nintendo DS cartridges are backwards compatible with the 3DS, not all cartridges are forwards compatible with the OG DS-line. This section details the cartridges that work with the 3DS, and not the standard DS.

There are 2 different types of 3DS cartridges (click here to expand).
Cart Type Games Colour Front Back
CTR-005 1690 White
NTR-005¹ 6 White

¹ This variant of the NTR-005 is used for DSi Exclusive games. These games are not compatible with the Phat DS and DS Lite.

For many years, there have been fake carts using an R4-styled casing. These are not classed as 3DS games.

R4 "NN3DS" cart on left, actual NN3DS cart on right.

Debossings on Rear Cart

  • All legitimate casings have a depth of 0.05mm for the debossings.
  • All legitimate carts show "PAT. PEND.", with a space in between the first full stop and "PEND"; however there are fakes with both the spacing, and omitted.
  • The dot in the "i" of the Nintendo logo must match Nintendo's typeface, being square. A circular or ovular dot equals a fake. However, there are fakes with the square dot, and in certain lighting conditions and picture quality, the square can appear chamfered. As a result, this is not a verification method.

Labels

The section of the label where the game code identifier resides does not have to be white. This can also be black dependent on regional variations, namely European and Japanese copies; and even console type. The position of the code does not have to be dead center, either. The game code identifier (LNA-xxx) can vary from CTR to KTR dependent on what console the game was released for.

Decoding Cartridge Codes

This section is based on the codes for the front label.

Nintendo 3DS cartridges have one of the following two formats:

  • LNA-CTR-βγγδ-εεε
  • LNA-KTR-βγγδ-εεε

These two formats relate to the following consoles:

  • CTR: Nintendo 3DS
  • KTR: New Nintendo 3DS

Prototype cartridges don't follow this format.

PCB Batch Identifers

This section is in progress, and PCB batch identifiers are not absolute.

Like the DS preceding it, all 3DS carts utilise a batch indentifier on the PCB. This batch identifier is based on the PCB itself, dependent on manufacture date, factory location, revision etc.

List of Batch Identifiers (click here to expand)
Batch Identifier Fake Legit? Earliest Release? Latest Release?
DA No Yes
DB No Yes
DC No Yes 2012 2020
DI Yes Yes 2011
DJ No Yes
DO No Yes 2012 2020
DP No Yes 2013
DS No Yes 2019
DT No Yes
DY No Yes
DZ No Yes

Just because a batch identifier isn't used for fake games yet, doesn't mean it won't be in the future. You must always bear this mind when verifying games. Counterfeits always evolve over time.

PCB Variations

This section is in progress, and PCB cart variations are not absolute.

All 3DS carts have varying PCB variants. The type of PCB can be determined via the back right of the PCB, above the contacts. Some games would only use one type of PCB, yet others would use several. As long as the kerning is correct, and the PCB matches a known variant, this can be used as a verification method.

Nintendo 3DS cartridges use the following alphanumeric formats for PCB variations:

  • CTR-005: X##-##

For the CTR-005 series:

  • X is the 1st letter which dictates the series of PCB.
  • ##-## is the 2nd to 5th digits, using numbers and a dash separator between the 3rd and 4th digits.
Legitimate PCB Variations (click here to expand)
D01-01 - D01-10

If a cartridge doesn't follow any of the above formats, it's fake (unless it's a prototype cartridge).

Cases

Common 3DS cases are white for both PAL and NTSC. For games released in JP territories, these can be black or white. Some games use different colour casings, dependent on print variant.

List of Different Colour Casings (click here to expand):
Case Colour Game Front Back
Red Pokémon Omega Ruby [EU/JP/KOR]
Yellow Detective Pikachu [EU/JP/KOR]
Super Mario Maker [EU/JP]
Blue Pokémon Alpha Sapphire [EU/JP/KOR]

PAL casings are slightly thicker than NTSC and JP titles.

Duck Dynasty for 3DS, NTSC. 12mm case width on left. Ghost Recon: Shadow Wars for 3DS, PAL. 15mm case width on right.

New Nintendo 3DS

Black for both PAL and JP, White for NTSC. PAL casings are slightly thicker than NTSC and JP titles.

Seals

NTSC

3DS games are sealed using Y-folds. Sealed NTSC games do not carry the Nintendo tearaway strip.

PAL

3DS games are sealed using Y-folds. Sealed PAL games carry the Nintendo tearaway strip in grey which spreads horizontally across the front of the game.

Opening a 3DS Cart

Like the entry for the DS carts, this goes without saying, that we highly recommend that you do NOT do this!!! The reason why we don't recommend this is because the rear and front casings are "hot-welded" together, meaning that if you break the seals apart in order to get into the cart (which is 99% likely), you won't be able to re-close the cart. Got that? Ok, let's continue...

At the top left of the cart, you'll see a slight indent. What you'll need to do is, with a plastic spudger (you can use a metal spudger, but this will further damage the plastic of the cart), gently pry apart the front and back casings apart. You'll very likely snap the fused parts apart. Once these parts have come away, you'll need to pry open the left side of the cart. The next part is to pry and slide your plastic spudger underside the botom of the cart apart until you're near the right side. Then the right side of the front of the cart should be able to be unclipped off of the back along with the side tag. Once unclipped, you should be able to see the board.

However, if you do wish to replace the 3DS cart casing, you could use a third-party casing. Some casings do not show any Nintendo markings along with you having to create your own reproduction sticker. This will show that your game is custom, but if you're looking at custom 3DS cart cases you already know that. We don't really recommend it, but we're just showing you that the option is there.
Teddy Together PCB for 3DS, PAL. Front face on left, Rear face on right.

Note the markings on the ROM chip (CTR-AKMP-0-0). This is a method you can use to verify games for DMG, GBC and GBA games, but also works for NDS and 3DS games.

  • CTR dictates that the cartridge is from the 3DS line.
  • AKMx dictates that the cartridge is Teddy Together.
  • xxxP dictates that the cartridge is from the PAL region.
  • 0-0 is the revision. This is the first print.

Credits

  • Many thanks to GameTDB for hosting some of the 3DS cases.